Grading is inherently subjective but gives a guide as to the difficulty of the route. Minus (-) and plus (+) notations are used to augment the 1-3 grades to add further granularity. Rock climbing grades are used for routes commonly climbed as roped rock climbs
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| Wet rock transforms the difficulty of a scramble (note the socks worn for friction) |
The grades apply to ascents in good dry conditions. Wet rock, particularly on the crags, can increase the grade considerably or render a scramble extremely hazardous.
1 A straightforward scramble, with little or no route-finding difficulty. The described route takes the most interesting line, which can usually be varied or even avoided at will. Generally, the exposure is not great, but even so, great care must be taken to avoid a slip.
2 Contains longer and more difficult stretches of scrambling, and a rope may be useful for ensuring safety for inexperienced or nervous scramblers. Although individual sections of the scramble can usually be avoided, these sections may be inescapable once the scramble is underway. Some skill in route finding is required to follow the described line.
3 A more serious proposition, only to be undertaken by competent parties. Escape is difficult. A rope is advisable for safety on exposed passages and for some pitches of easy rock climbing. The routes require a steady leader with the ability to judge how the rest of the party are coping with the situations, and a rope should be used wherever the safety of an individual is in doubt.
3S A particularly serious outing, often involving poor rock or vegetation, and may include steep pitches of rock climbing. Recommended only for experienced, competent climbers who will almost certainly use a rope on key pitches. Escape is difficult.
M Moderate rock climb
D Difficult rock climb
VD Very Difficult rock climb
The grade is usually accompanied by a star rating that indicates the overall quality of the route considering not just the scrambling itself, but situation, continuity and length.
No Stars Not particularly meritorious in its own right, but worth including as part of a day's outing.
* Worth climbing but may be discontinuous, short or lacking in continuous interest
** A route of more continuous interest and a good line
*** A classic route with continuously interesting scrambling that is based on a good line
In addition, I've added a red spot ( a bit like the black spot in Treasure Island but red) to indicate a poor route:
😡 Not recommended due to being vegetated, slippery and of poor quality
😡😡 Of very poor quality and may be dangerous.
😡 😡😡 Avoid if you can. These routes are death traps. You have been warned!